Wine-braised clams are simmered with tomatoes and chouriço, a Portuguese smoked sausage. Kale, cooked until wilted and tender, adds a subtle nuttiness that balances the briny, smoky flavors.

I started making it as a traditional caldo verde, using leafy kale and Portuguese chouriço. One day, when I was craving the soup, I couldn't find leafy kale in any of the markets, so substituted ...