She tracked down Kurdistan’s only official ‘Atashgah’ (the Zoroastrian centre of worship) in the city of Sulaymaniyah, 85 miles to the north. Once there, it seemed like a semi-utopia ...

On the auspicious day of Avan Roz (usually around March every year), the city's Zoroastrians worship this powerful yazata. The 'gateway'returns to Girgaon Girgaon is where the next stop on our ...