There are some dishes that transcend cultures and become universally loved for their incredible flavor and satisfying nature.

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After Lee and a friend saw big crowds at a taco shop during lunchtime, the friend suggested that Lee serve Korean-style tacos. Bulgogi (grilled beef) and shrimp tacos at Tacowa in Boca Raton.

The Korean Karnitas Tako showcases bulgogi made of braised pork belly and shoulder with a crunchy lemon slaw. It’s joined by pickled onions, salsa tomatillo, and red salsa ranchera.

I also sampled the Korean barbecue tacos (three to an order). They are made with your choice of beef, chicken, pork or tofu, topped with mayo and Napa cabbage slaw.

Bulgogi, in fact, evolved tremendously from its origins as a skewered meat during the Goguryeo era (37 B.C. to A.D. 668).

The tacos demonstrate how those old feelings Koreans brought with them to Los Angeles in the 1960s are fading, and a new spirit is coming in. It took us a couple of generations, but here we are.

While the meatballs are broiling, pour the remaining marinade into a small saucepan and set over medium-high heat. In a small bowl, whisk together the water and the cornstarch to form a slurry ...